A city of seemingly
unlimited contrasts and depth...
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In front of the eastern face of Parthenon |
Athens was a very impressive city - one of the best I
have ever visited. It is not a pretty city, at least up
close, but it has depth and character. The things to see and
do are significant, rich in both history and
culture. Distant views of
Athens better show its beauty, with the Acropolis as a
constant backdrop (large picture below right). My four days in Greece were all based in
Athens, so I got to know it a bit below the surface. It is a very walkable city, with most significant
places within 20 minutes of each other. Newer areas are
largely under construction for the 2004 Olympics, and
around every corner it seems there is another
archeological excavation. |
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The Acropolis
The Acropolis is a group of buildings on top of a hill,
built there in the fifth century BC to provide a defensible
position close enough to the port with its own supply of water
from a spring. The site at night is spectacular from almost
anywhere in the city (first picture below from
my hotel a mile
away) The most famous building is the Parthenon (large picture
above and second and third pictures below), flanked by the Erechtheion (fourth picture below) and fronted by the Beule
Gate and Propylaia. The climb to the top was easy and the
views looking down at the city, mountains and the port were excellent. |
Athens city view from Mount Lycabettus |
The Ancient Agora and the Theatres of Dionysos and Herodes
Atticus
The area just below and northwest of the Acropolis is the
Ancient Agora or marketplace (first picture below taken from
the Acropolis). Socrates strolled with Plato and his other
students here, posing questions that led to a new kind of
human understanding. Socrates was also imprisoned and drank
his cup of hemlock at the southwest corner of the Agora in
399BC for "introducing strange gods and corrupting youth". The
Agora's best preserved landmark is the Temple of Hephaistos and Athena, known as the Theseion (second picture
below). On the southern slope of the Acropolis are two theatres;
the larger theatre of Dionysos (third picture below) and the
smaller Odeum of Herodes Atticus (fourth picture below) which
was reconstructed in the nineteenth century and is still used
today during the yearly Athens Festival. |
The Roman Agora, Hadrians Arch and the Temple of Olympian
Zeus
The Roman Agora is just east of the Ancient Agora passing
through the old Plaka district with its narrow winding
streets, filled with shops and sidewalk restaurants. Its most
notable monument is the first century BC Tower of the Winds
(first picture below) with relief sculptures of the eight gods
of the winds. It was originally built by an astronomer as a
sundial and water powered clock. Continuing east past the
Plaka district, Hadrian's Arch, built in the first century AD,
marked the dividing line between Greek and Roman Athens
(second picture below, partially covered by scaffolding).
Hadrian also built the Temple of the Olympian Zeus, just
behind the arch, one of the largest temples of the ancient
world. Only one corner of it remains intact (third picture
below), although the foundation and tumbled columns show its
original size (fourth picture below). |
Around the Town - Athens
The city of Athens is unique in ways beyond its ancient
monuments. One of the first things I noticed were the large
numbers of loose dogs and cats everywhere. They were all
friendly, accustomed to crossing streets with the lights and
comfortable curled up and sleeping alongside the paths to
tourist locations. Marble is everywhere in Athens - literally
lying alongside the roads. This abundance of marble partially
accounts for the beauty and longevity of buildings. The 70,000
seat marble Panathinaikon Stadium (first picture below), east
of the Temple of the Olympian Zeus, will be the site of the
opening and closing ceremonies for the 2004 Olympics as well
as the finish line for the marathon. The length of a marathon
race is rumored to have originated from the distance from the
Plains of Marathon to the center of Athens, first run by a
triumphant Greek soldier in 490BC bringing news of victory
over the Persians. He then collapsed and died - fame has its
cost. Art galleries and museums are plentiful in Athens.
Besides the museums tied in with each ancient monument, I
visited the
Museum of Cycladic Art (which also had a great Dali
exhibition going), the
Bernier-Eliades Gallery and attempted to visit the Benaki.
The Benaki's photo policy was so regressive - the world's
worst, that I had to get a refund and leave. They require not
only that you don't take pictures, but that you leave your
camera at the entrance in an unsecured coat check area. Please
join me in boycotting this foolishness. North of the stadium,
the Presidential Palace (second picture below) has a unique
tribute ritual conducted hourly by the guards in
traditional Greek uniform. This same ritual is performed at
the tomb of the unknown soldier across from Syntagma Square at
the Parliament. The new subway station at Syntagma Square is
the most beautiful I have ever seen (third picture below),
including a small museum of archeological finds encountered in
building it. Athens also has many interesting modern buildings
such as the
Academy (fourth picture below) built in the mid-nineteenth
century. The new Athens airport is much farther from town than
the old one, but nicely built and efficient. |
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