An incredible swim in a
bio-luminescent bay, a 500 year old walled city and a
tropical rainforest on US soil...
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Reserva Natural las Cabezas
mangrove |
I'm not one to pass up any
Caribbean opportunity, so when a midwest business
meeting got deferred, off I flew to explore this great
island for four days, expanding on the places I saw on
my first trip here
in December, 2007. Because it was summer break at
UCSB, my older son Ben was able to fly in for the later
part of the visit. The highlight of the trip, and one of
the most unique experiences I've ever had, was our late
night swim in the world's most bio-luminescent bay on
the island of Vieques. |
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Friday August 29th
I arrived from Dallas at 4pm (AST), picked up my rental car
and headed west through San Juan's traffic crush to the
La Concha Renaissance on Condado beach. After
snapping a few shots from my balcony (first picture below), I
drove into old San Juan for the evening. I had dinner just
down the hill from the southwest end of the 500 year old city
wall (second picture below) at a cozy restaurant & jazz cafe
called
Carli Cafe Concierto, owned by pianist
Carli
Munoz. I finished the evening at
Barrachina, one of two San Juan bars claiming to have
invented the Pińa Colada (third picture below).
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Ben & Wayne on the rocky
northeast coast |
Saturday August 30th
Ben's overnight flight from Los
Angeles arrived mid-morning. After unloading his luggage at
the hotel, we drove into old San Juan to explore. The weather
was hot, but otherwise ideal for walking around San Juan's
cobblestone streets. After lunch at the Hard Rock Cafe (fourth
picture above with Ben on-stage) we headed north toward
Fuerte San
Felipe (first three pictures below - entrance, second tier
inside and building arches), one of two 500 year old forts
bookending the west and east ends of the old city. From
Fuerte San
Felipe, we walked east along the north shoreline (fourth
picture below) and explored the other fort, San Cristóbal. I
had visited San
Cristóbal on my prior trip in December.
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The view west from San Cristóbal
shows the old city wall extending between the two forts (first
picture below). We got back to Condado Beach in the early evening and witnessed an
interesting sunset that included two storms over the ocean off in
the distance (second picture below). We then enjoyed an
extended tapas dinner at Mirós (named for
the painter,
with his prints hanging throughout), that included a bottle of
one of my favorite, but hard to find Spanish wines (La Rioja Alta, SA, Vino Ardanza
'00 Reserva
Rioja). We finished the evening at the Marriott Condado's casino
across the street, Ben's first experience with organized
gambling. |
Sunday August 31st
We awoke to a beautiful sunrise
from our balcony over Condado beach (third picture above
facing east showing the hotel's seashell covered restaurant).
After a quick breakfast we headed
90 minutes east to
El
Yunque National Forest in the Luquillo mountains. We had a
very full day planned farther east, so we drove just a
few miles into the park to La Coca Falls (fourth picture
above), which is right at the side of the road. I had explored
El Yunque more extensively on
my prior trip, but
this brief visit gave Ben a decent glimpse. After lunch in
Fajardo, we
drove to
Reserva Natural las Cabezas at the northeast tip of the
island, where we had reservations for the 2pm tour that included
Laguna Grande
mangrove
(first two pictures below and large picture top of page left),
the rocky Atlantic coastline (third picture below and large
picture top of page right) and the Fajardo lighthouse (view
southwest from the platform in fourth picture below).
Heading south from the Reserva, we got a bit lost finding
Marina Puerto del Rey (it's at N18.28778 W65.63656 for any
GPSers out there), where we would catch our
East Island Excursions catamaran at 5:30pm to the island
of Vieques with for the bio-luminescent bay swim. The 45
minute, 30 mile ride in the cat to Vieques was fun, albeit
hot, with very weak Pina Coladas served enroute. We were met
by a van at Vieques' dock in Esperanza and driven across the
island to a restaurant run by
Island
Adventures (the folks who do the bio-luminescent Mosquito
Bay tours) for dinner and our instructions for the night swim.
We had near perfect conditions on the bay with a new moon
keeping the ambient light to a minimum. The water was about
85°F. I tried to take pictures both from the boat and in the
water, but none turned out. I copied a couple of pictures from
the Island Adventure site to the bottom of this page, but even
they don't do the experience justice. The water really does
light up that much! When you raise your arm up out of the
water the droplets coming down on your skin sparkle like
diamonds. A very unique experience.
Monday
September 1st (Labor Day) & Tuesday September 2nd
After our whirlwind Sunday,
getting back to the hotel after midnight, we decided to blow
off my planned Monday drive through the center of the island
to Cuomo and Ponce and instead hang around Condado, the pool and the
beach. Very relaxing. We grabbed lunch at Via Appias Deli and
Wine Bar on Ashford a few blocks from our hotel. In the
evening we drove into old San Juan and enjoyed a Plantation
style dinner at
Raices, which is a local phenomenon. Tuesday morning we
packed and headed to the airport for our flight home. |
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