Italy's towns perched on
Mediterranean cliffs...
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Overlooking Sorrento south of Pompeii |
Our
day trip south included two elements, Pompeii and the
Amalfi coast. Pompeii offers a unique snapshot of
ancient times - a large city that didn't experience
normal rise and decay because it was frozen in time for
almost two millenniums after Vesuvius' massive eruption
buried it in 79AD. The Amalfi coast offers stunning
scenery punctuated by hill-climbing towns with deep
blue harbors. Tiny roads carved into the sides of
mountains jammed with too-big cars and buses make the
journey from Sorrento to the city of Amalfi memorable. |
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Tuesday August 18th
Heading south from Rome, we passed by
Naples (on the advice of almost everyone). From the freeway at
least, that seemed like good advice - Naples looked like a
sprawling slum. 30 minutes south of Naples we pulled in to
Pompeii. The area around the ruins entrances was tourist trap
heaven, with junk shops, pushy tour guides and busloads of
elderly tour groups. Not mentioned in travel books, there are
two entrances to the ruins, and we picked the wrong one, waiting
30 minutes in line for tickets because only one window was open.
That entrance also put us at the end of the ruins instead of at
the beginning.
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"Heart" of the Almafi coast drive - Positano |
The day was very hot and Pompeii offers
little shade. The city is bigger than we anticipated and
because we started at the wrong end, we walked essentially
every mile. The first picture above shows the main road, Via
Vesuvio, that we started off on with Vesuvius looming in the
the background. A mile or so in we finally got our bearings
and did the walking tour in reverse. The second picture above
is the Pompeii Forum near the end of our tour shot in
panorama. Leaving Pompeii just after noon, we got caught in an
hour-long traffic jam coming through the many tunnels into
Sorrento. Once we made the turn onto the coast in Sorrento
(third picture above and large picture top of page left) the
traffic subsided. There are several small towns along the
drive, but Positano stands out, even
from a distance (fourth picture above and first picture
below). |
Positano's bright white and tile
buildings form the shape of an upside-down
heart (large picture top of page right), perched on the cliff
above its deep blue harbor. We spent an hour in Positano,
walking the steep streets (second picture above) and grabbing
a late lunch at
La Zagara a few blocks above the Duomo (interior third
picture above). Leaving Positano, we stopped at one of many
viewpoints along the road and snapped the fourth picture
above. Continuing east on a road that must have been cut right into
the side of the mountain, we passed more
small towns (first and second pictures below) before the town
of Amalfi came into view (third picture below). |
The city of Amalfi is quaint with a busy harbor area and
a town square flanked by
its imposing Duomo (fourth picture above). Amalfi's Duomo has
a one-way walking circuit through four distinct areas: The
Cloister of Paradise, the Basilica of the Crucifix, the Crypt
of St. Andrew (first picture below) and the Cathedral itself
(second picture below). We left Amalfi in the late afternoon
heading north through Ravello to beat the "one hour before
sunset closing" of Mt. Vesuvius' hike to its peak. As things
turned out, they decided to close that day two hours before
sunset, so we missed hiking the summit pathway by 10 minutes. The
third shot below is an early evening view from the base of the
summit pathway in Vesuvius' inner cone showing Naples and its
semi-circular harbor in the distance.
Back in Rome, I took one last nighttime view from our hotel
room window of the Aurelian Wall using my 10mm wide angle lens
with the Tiffen North Star filter. Wednesday morning we went
to the airport and boarded our plane to
Zurich. |
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