When again in Rome...
|
Colossal backdrop heading down Fori Imperiali |
Borrowing a metaphor I once
read, Rome is the delightful chaos of a plate of
spaghetti noodles and sauce that contrasts the order and
logic of the rest of western Europe. It offers the best
of both ancient and modern worlds mapped in winding
streets and broad boulevards often jammed with cars,
buses and people seeking their own grasp of this cradle
of civilization. In our last visit to
Rome in 2000 we just had
enough time to scratch its surface, so for our return I
was determined to journey farther and dig deeper. |
|
Thursday August 13th
Landing at Rome's Leonardo Da Vinci airport
at 2pm, we quickly made our way through customs to meet our
driver in the arrivals hall. The trip to our hotel, the
Marriott Grand Flora, was quick and we were unpacked,
cleaned up and walking down Via Venito by 3pm. After an early
dinner at the
Hard Rock Cafe, we headed to the
Trevi Fountain (first picture below), the
Spanish Steps (second picture below) and
Piazza Popolo. We walked back to our hotel along the
periphery of Villa Borghese park. From our hotel room window we
watched the sun set over the ancient
Aurelian Walls (third picture below) before retiring for the
night.
|
Wide view of Rome taken from the top of St. Peter's Dome |
Friday
August 14th - Vatican Museum and Saint Peter's
After more than 12 hours of well-deserved sleep, we left jet
lag behind us and grabbed a late breakfast at a cafe near our
hotel. Having learned from our mistakes visiting the
Vatican
Museum in 2000, I did some research prior to this trip and
made reservations as well as choosing an afternoon time slot
to avoid the stifling morning crowds. It worked - we entered
in seconds, the halls were passable (fourth picture above) and
our trek through the Vatican Museum ending in the recently
restored Sistine Chapel (ceiling close-up in first picture
below) was enjoyable. Missing the side exit from the Sistine
Chapel that would have put us right at Saint Peter's (duh!),
we paid the penalty of a very hot walk around the outside of
the Vatican wall to Saint Peter's Square where we had to go
through the security and wardrobe check (no shorts or bare
shoulders, although contrary to travel book reports they do
not enforce this stringently) before entering the
cathedral.
Michelangelo's incredible Pieta (second picture below) was
off to the right behind a clear security shield as we entered
the cathedral. I know it's been said often and more
eloquently, but this is a really, really big church! Being
inside, it again inspired a certain level of awe. The third
picture below is just the very front part where the alter is.
To satisfy some insane need to climb on a boiling hot August
afternoon wearing our required long pants, we opted to visit
the top of
Saint Peter's dome. We took the outside elevator to the
base of the dome (fourth picture below - view of the alter
from inside the dome's base), then climbed the 330 narrow
steps wedged between the dome's inner and outer shell.
|
The first picture below shows Craig
catching his breath in a rare wide spot in the claustrophobic,
sometimes almost diagonally-walled climb. The payoff was
worthwhile (second picture below - do I look a bit warm?),
offering wonderful views of Saint Peter's Square and all of
Rome (large picture top of page right). The trip back down
seemed almost too easy. Heading out of Saint Peter's Square,
we took the short walk along Via della Conciliazione to
Castel Saint Angelo (third picture below with Craig
relaxing on the bridge rail) where we grabbed some cold drinks
before taxiing back to our hotel.
Contrary to travel book reports, Rome was far from deserted
during the August holiday period, however the one difficulty
we did encounter was that recommended local restaurants were
closed (e.g. Harry's Bar, Restorante San Marco). Changing into
shorts first, we found a good Italian restaurant,
Girarrosto Toscano, just down the block from our hotel
where we enjoyed a leisurely dinner. Before ending our first
full day in Rome, we decided to take a late night walk back to
the Trevi Fountain armed with my wide angle 10-20mm lens
coupled with a Tiffen North Star filter, resulting in the
fourth picture below. Along the way we had gelatos for dessert
and found a good wine store
where they unearthed an excellent 1998 Val de Suga Vigna del
Lago Brunello de Montalcino for 50€ which I enjoyed sipping
over the next three nights. |
Saturday
August 15th - Antiquities
After another good night's sleep
followed by breakfast on the roof of the hotel, we headed out
to visit Rome's antiquities. The walk to the Colosseum ending
on Fori Imperiali (large picture top of page left) wasn't
long, but it was hot. Following the advice of travel books, we
turned right up Palatine Hill to buy our combination tickets,
but even though the line was short, it was slow because they
had only one ticket window open. Undaunted, we trekked all of
Palatine Hill (first picture below panorama looking toward the Colosseum)
and then proceeded down to the Colosseum (second, third and
fourth pictures below).
|
|
|
|
|
After leaving the Colosseum,
we walked the length of the Roman Forum (first picture below),
then climbed up Capitol Hill and hiked another mile or so to
Piazza Navona (second picture below, Bernini's 1651
Fountain of the Four Rivers). By this time we were very hot
and tired, but decided to refuel at
Tre
Scalini with a tartufo and gelato and then take the short
walk over to the Pantheon. We just missed the unexpected early
closing of the Pantheon due to the Catholic holiday,
Assumption of Mary. We taxied back to our hotel and ate a
relaxing dinner at Il Pomodoro a few blocks away before
retiring early to prepare for our all-day
Tuscany road trip starting at
8am Sunday.
Monday August 16th
After our long day in Tuscany on
Sunday and knowing that we had another long day coming Tuesday
in Pompeii and the Amalfi
coast, we decided to have an easy day in Rome picking up a
couple of missed spots and hanging around the hotel. After a
late breakfast on the hotel roof, we walked to Piazza del
Popolo and visited the inside of
Santa Maria del Popolo (third picture below). The quality
of artwork, sculptures and architecture inside this one church
was amazing, including key works by Pinturicchio, Raphael,
Caravaggio and Bernini, kept together over the years to tell a
complete story. From Santa Maria, we walked down to the
Pantheon with a quick detour for the famous
Della Palma Gelateria. The
Pantheon is the best preserved of all the antiquities in
Rome with an interesting flow of light from the open dome at
the top (fourth picture below). Monday evening we walked
through Villa Borghese and then had dinner at a local pizza
place called la Bruchetta. We retired early to prepare
for our all-day Pompeii
and Amalfi coast trip starting at 8am Tuesday.
|
|
|
|
|
Mackey Group, Inc.
© 2002 - 2021
|
|