Gettin our "oom-pah-pah"
on in Bavaria...
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Munich Marienplatz Rathaus |
This marked the first visit for both of us to Bavaria.
Our stay was a month or so before the madness of
Oktoberfest, but we visited two of the largest and
most famous beer gardens, and were unimpressed. The food
was just okay and although we're used to smokers in
Europe, the cloud of cigarette smoke hanging over the
beer gardens was as thick as molasses. Surprisingly, I
found the beer all over Bavaria just average, although
there was certainly a lot of it everywhere. Maybe I just
didn't know where to find the best. The wonderful town
square area in Munich was bustling with crowds day and
night. Our side trip to Salzburg, Austria
was a highlight. |
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Friday, August 20th -
Munich
Our train from Prague to Munich was the best of the trip - fast and uncrowded, arriving ahead of schedule at at 2:30pm. At the DB ticket
office at Munich's Hbf we figured out the best local pass for our
visit - a 3 day S & U Bahn group pass. We took the S1 from the Hbf, connecting
to the U6 to Nordfreihof which was right next to our hotel, the
Renaissance Munich. The hotel was inexpensive and adequate with
one fatal flaw - no air conditioning. After a quick turnaround, we
took the U6 back to Marienplatz (large picture above), the town's square
and the center of most activity. A short walk away we grabbed dinner
at the Hard Rock Cafe and got our first taste of Bavaria's ubiquitous
1 liter mugs of beer (first picture below). After a dusk walk around
town (second picture below), we retired for the night. |
Salzburg, Austria Mirabell Gardens view to fortress |
Munich Hard Rock
Cafe toast |
Isar gate at dusk |
Dachau Arbeit gate |
Dachau memorial statue |
Saturday, August 21st -
Dachau Concentration camp memorial &
Munich's beer gardens
After a late breakfast at the hotel lounge, we took the U6 and S2 30
minutes to Dachau where we boarded the #726 bus to the concentration
camp memorial site. Entering as we did at Sachsenhausen, through the
"Arbeit macht frei" gate (third picture above), we started in the
massive museum. In my opinion, the Dachau museum is way overdone
with thousands of artifacts like shreds of shoe leather and tiny
scraps of paper that by their sheer numbers actually distracted from
the larger message of the memorial. The clerk at the entry shop said
we would need 4 hours to cover the museum before entering the
grounds - we took 25 minutes, which was plenty. The grounds were
impressive in size, but almost all the original buildings were gone.
Relatively new memorials dominated the landscape (fourth picture
above). We spent about an hour covering all of the grounds (first
picture below), then headed back to the Dachau station where we had
lunch before returning to Munich.
I'd heard that every Munich tourist has to try the Hofbräuhaus at
least once, and we didn't want to be the exception. The Hofbräuhaus
is a massive indoor and outdoor beer garden and restaurant that they
say can hold 5000 people. I don't doubt that. We found the
Hofbräuhaus directly across from the Hard Rock Cafe, a few blocks
from Marienplatz. The picnic table seating was uncrowded in the
mid-afternoon and the menu was varied, but was dominated by
authentic German dishes. We sat down just as the oom-pah-pah band
was starting their break (second picture below). My liter mug of
dark beer was just okay, but the service and food were remarkably
good for such a touristy and large place. We returned to our hotel
to rest for a while and then headed back out on the U6 to University
where we walked across the huge park to the equally huge outdoor
Chinese Beer Garden (third picture below). We found the lines too
long, the food and beer bad and the cigarette smoke cloud
asphyxiating. Returning to the University area, I took a long
exposure fountain shot in front of the main building of Ludwig
Maximilian University (fourth picture below). Still not tired, we
boarded the U6 again to Marienplatz where we walked the busy
Saturday night square, met a dog called a
Slovensky Cuvac that looked remarkably like a smaller version of
our Great Pyrenees Charlie, and then finished
our day with a late night snack. |
Dachau fence &
barracks spots |
Hofbräuhaus
interior |
Chinese Beer Garden |
Ludwig Maximilian
Univ. |
Sunday, August 22nd -
Salzburg, Austria - Hohensalzburg Fortress & the land of
Mozart
Our Czech Republic & Germany Eurail passes covered some border
towns, including Salzburg, Austria, so we decided to take a day trip
there. The train to Salzburg took 80 minutes to cover the 90 miles
from Munich, arriving just before noon. We bought
Salzburg Cards at the station, which weren't as much a bargain
(25€ x2!) as they were a convenient way to skip ticket lines the
rest of the day. We took bus #1 from the train station to Old Town
and began walking towards the Hohensalzburg Fortress, which can be
seen from almost anywhere in town. We stopped at the Salzburg Dom
(first picture below) before entering the bustling town square
perched directly below the fortress (second and third pictures
below). |
Salzburg Dom
interior |
Salzburg square
artwork |
Hohensalzburg
Fortress panorama |
We took the funicular up to the fortress,
which had a commanding view of the city from its tiered walls
(first and second pictures below). The inside of the fortress
complex was interesting, but didn't require a lot of time to
see everything worthwhile. After taking the funicular back
down, we navigated the narrow streets of Old Town (third
picture below, map in Craig's hand) to
Mozart's
birthplace (fourth picture below). After a quick visit there,
we walked across the river to Mozart's residence which was
another quick tour. Continuing along the north side of the
river, we entered
Mirabell Gardens (large picture top of page right) which
had a nice long distance view all the way to the fortress. We
caught the bus near the gardens back to the train station
where we found a little bar across the street for drinks and a
snack before boarding the return train to Munich. Back in
Munich around sunset, we took the S1 from the Hbf to
Marienplatz where we found Killian's Pub, a relaxed
hole-in-the-wall place with pub food (the Fat Bishop sandwich was
great) and the best beer of the whole trip, ironically an
Irish Ale - Murphy's Red. After dinner, we returned to our
hotel and packed for our trip to Cologne the next day. |
Hohensalzburg
Fortress overlook |
Hohensalzburg
Fortress Salzburg city view |
Narrow streets |
Mozart's birthplace |
Click on the button below to
continue with us to the end of our trek in the city of
Cologne, back in Germany's
Rhineland
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