A father-son two-week trek, "ridin the rails" through central Europe...
Night panorama shot of the Hohenzollern rail
bridge, gateway to Cologne, Germany
Craig
and I have traveled together for many years during his
school breaks, most recently to
Italy in 2009, Puerto Rico
in 2008, Australia in 2007,
Greece in 2006 and
Costa Rica in 2006. An end of
summer opportunity presented itself again between Craig's sophomore
and junior years at UCLA, so with a lot of advance planning
accompanied by a lot of frequent flier miles burned, off we went for
two weeks to tour central Europe. Adding a new element,
we decided to buy
Eurail passes and do all of our ground transportation using
Europe's much vaunted high speed rail system. We began and ended our
ground travel in Frankfurt, Germany, completing a circle through
Berlin, Prague, Munich and Cologne with some side day trips along
the way.
Armed with plenty of photographic
equipment along with some recent education in
photography, between the two of us we
took over a thousand pictures that I've culled into these five
humble pages. You can click on the map to the right or use the navigation buttons
at the bottom of this page to
view individual pages for each region. The "Rhineland" includes
Frankfurt, the
Rhine valley castle towns and Cologne. "Berlin"
includes Berlin proper and a day trip to the
Sachsenhausen
concentration camp memorial site. The "Czech Republic" includes
the city of Prague and a long day trip to medieval, bohemian
Český Krumlov. "Bavaria" includes Munich, a half-day trip to the
Dachau concentration camp memorial site and a day trip to
Salzburg,
Austria. The
weather was nearly perfect throughout our trip (~70°F highs), with
just a few threats of rain over the entire two weeks.
Our
experience with the DB and Czech rail systems over the two weeks
that we
were using them was good, but not great. We learned to
love no security checks. All the seats have plenty of room and you
can get up and move around anytime. Trains were fast, some much faster than
others. But our trains were late as often as they were on time and a
couple of the trains had major breakdowns - like all the air
conditioning gone on one very hot 2 hour stretch. Seat reservations are
confusing and twice were not honored because of last-minute
configuration changes, even after paying €18 extra
for the reservation ahead of time. First class cars were better than
second class, mostly because of smaller crowds, but the food was
below the level of any airplane economy class.
Getting there...
Our best flight option to Frankfurt required a
stopover in Chicago for a day, so we used the opportunity to do a
little sightseeing in the windy city. We arrived in Chicago from LA
in the evening, checked into the
Renaissance Downtown and walked east and then south along the
river to the former Sears tower, now called the
Willis Tower,
which is the tallest building in the western hemisphere. We took the
elevator to the top, grabbed some pictures from the Skydeck and
finished the evening with a late dinner at the Emerald Loop Pub. The
next morning we walked to the northeast corner of Millennium park to
do a three-hour
Segway
tour of the city. It was the first time for both of us on a
Segway and although we certainly looked geeky (first picture
below), it was a lot of fun - highly recommended! After a leisurely
turnaround at our hotel we took a limo to O'Hare to catch our 7:30pm
flight to Frankfurt.
Chicago
Segway tour |
Rhine
castle towns |
Prague
Castle at dusk |
Salzburg
Mirabell gardens |
Itinerary...
After our
stopover day in Chicago and flight to Frankfurt, we
used Thursday afternoon August 12th to tour Frankfurt's downtown. On Friday
we spent the whole day cruising the Rhine river valley from Bingen
to Koblenz. The second picture above was
taken on board the river boat. On Saturday the 14th, we took a high
speed train to Berlin (~4 hours) where we stayed for three nights.
On Tuesday the 17th we took the train to Prague (~5 hours) for
another three night stay. The third picture above is a shot taken
along the banks of the Vltava river just after sunset with Prague
castle in the background. On Friday the 20th we took the train from
Prague to Munich (~6 hours) where we stayed for another three days,
including a day trip across the border to Salzburg, Austria (fourth
picture above). On Monday the 23rd we took a high speed train to
Cologne (~4 hours) where we spent our last day and night before
returning home. Click on the buttons below to follow our trek.
On Tuesday morning August 24th we took the morning
high speed train from Cologne directly to Frankfurt airport (~1
hour)
and boarded our plane back to Los Angeles via Dallas. All in all,
another excellent father-son European adventure.
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