Prague & Český Krumlov
- A photographer's
dream settings...
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Prague Castle
and the Charles Bridge panorama at dusk |
Prague Castle - Saint Vitus Wenceslas Chapel |
I'm not sure what it is about Prague that I love so
much. It's a city that's been through a lot, and wears
that history on its sleeve in many ways. Yet it's also
beautifully preserved, having been spared most of the
damage inflicted on the rest of Europe in 20th century
wars. Walking around the city there are many "old
right next to new" scenes, which makes it
especially appealing to the photographer in me. On
my last visit to Prague in
2001, I was taken in by both its beauty and its edgy,
almost dangerous aura. This trip amplified those prior
impressions and augmented them by our long day trip
south into bohemian, medieval
Český Krumlov. |
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Tuesday, August 17th -
Prague at night
Our train from Berlin arrived at 5:30 pm
after a picturesque ride through eastern Germany and northern Czech
Republic. After an ATM stop for Czech crowns (while the Czech
Republic is a member of the European Union, they don't use Euros
yet), we walked a few blocks to our hotel, the
Prague Marriott. After unpacking, we walked 10 minutes west to
Old Town Square, the center of activity, especially every hour on
the hour under the Astronomical Clock (first picture below). From
there we snaked through the tiny streets to the Vltava river to
catch dusk fall over the Charles Bridge and Prague Castle (second
picture below). We had dinner and drinks at the Hard Rock Cafe
before winding our way back (third and fourth pictures below). |
Chateau Round Tower view of
Český Krumlov |
Astronomical clock |
Prague Castle from
the Charles Bridge |
Powder Tower at
night |
Old Town Square at
night |
Wednesday, August 18th -
Prague's Castle District, Petřín Tower
& New Town
Forewarned about crowds, we woke early, ate breakfast at the hotel
lounge and then took the #22 tram to Prague Castle, where we arrived
at Saint Vitus Cathedral (first and second pictures below and large
picture top of page left) just as they opened the doors. Sure
enough, 30 minutes later, the tour busses had arrived and thousands
of people crowded the aisles. We walked around to the right of the
Cathedral to the Bell Tower entrance where we climbed the 300 steps
to the top (third picture below overlooking the courtyard and all of
Prague). Still somewhat ahead of the crowds, we went through all of
the Old Royal Palace and Saint Georges Basilica (fourth picture
below). Golden Lane was closed for construction as was the
Ledeburská zahrada garden, so we doubled back to the New Castle
Stairs which we used to descend to the Lesser Quarter. We then
walked past Saint Nicholas Cathedral to the base of Petřín
Hill. |
Saint Vitus facade |
Saint Vitus
interior |
View from St. Vitus
Bell Tower
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Saint Georges
Basilica |
The funicular to the top of Petřín
Hill had a 20 minute line, but saved us a tough climb. From
the top of the funicular, we walked through a serene park
(first picture below) and then took the tiny elevator to the
top of the tower. The view from the top of
Petřín
Tower was excellent. That's Prague Castle at the left of
the second picture below. There's no elevator down, so we did
the 400 steps with gravity on our side and then rode the
funicular back to the Lesser Quarter. Continuing southeast, we
crossed the Bridge of Legions (third picture below) and hiked
south into Prague's New Town at
Gehry's famous "Dancing House" (fourth picture below).
After some out-of-date map confusion finding the nearby metro
station, we headed back to our hotel mid-afternoon for lunch.
After some down-time and drinks at the lounge, we walked to
the
Mucha museum, which was excellent. I first visited this
museum in 2001 and have followed Mucha's work ever since. From
the Mucha, we walked to Saint Wenceslas Square, did some
souvenir shopping and returned to our hotel. We had dinner at
a touristy outdoor cafe in Old Town Square right under the
Astronomical Clock, capturing video of the crowd and the
clock's hourly display. After dinner, we walked west to the
Vltava River and took some evening tripod-mounted long
exposure shots of the Charles Bridge with Prague Castle in the
background (large panorama picture top of page - in my humble
opinion, the best shot of the trip) before retiring for the
night. |
Petřín Tower Park |
Panorama view of Prague
from Petřín Tower |
Bridge of Legions |
Gehry's Dancing
House |
Thursday, August 19th - Český Krumlov
Doing the 100 mile Český Krumlov journey in a day trip from
Prague is a stretch by any measure, but we decided we were up to the
task. We caught a very early train from Prague to Český
Budejovice, connecting there to Český Krumlov. The trains got
increasingly slow and bad the farther south we went. On the last leg
of the trip, we fully expected people to board with their goats and
sheep. The train station at Český Krumlov is downright awful.
Arriving just after noon, four hour journey behind us, we walked the
mile or so down the cobblestone path to Český Krumlov (first
picture below). We were pleasantly surprised at the quaint little
town. Český Krumlov is surrounded on three sides by a horseshoe
bend in the Vltava. We stopped at the chateau ticket office to
reserve our castle tour tickets for a 2:40pm tour in English. We
then found a nice outdoor cafe for a leisurely lunch - goulash and
beer, of course. The second picture below is the view from our lunch
table of the kayakers on the Vltava and the third picture below
shows the restaurant at the bottom and the castle and Round Tower
above it.
We walked through much of the small town before the tour. The tour
was too long, like most guided tours in my opinion, but otherwise
okay. After the tour, we climbed the 162 steps to the top of the
colorful Round Tower where we got some good overview shots of the
town (large picture top of page right). Hiking through the town
square, we noticed people walking around with a strange confection
that we learned was called a
Trdelnik. We found a Trdelnik vendor
and did our afternoon dessert like the locals (fourth picture
below). Nearing the end of the day, we bought take-away sandwiches
at a shop by the river and did the long uphill hike to the train
station to catch the 6pm train back to Prague. Arriving wearily in
Prague around 10pm, we walked back to our hotel, packed for our trip
the next day to Bavaria and retired for the night. |
Krumlov view from
walk path |
Krumlov Vltava
kayaking |
Krumlov restaurant
& Chateau |
Trdelnik by the
Vltava |
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