A table, a peninsula and
wine country South Africa...
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Hout's Bay
overlook on the peninsula - Craig, Wayne & Ben
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Table Mountain south side aerial view
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Cape Town is a remarkable and refined place. The
restaurants are excellent, the sights are beautiful, the
streets are clean and the people friendly. The peninsula
was filled with interesting places and sights and three
significant wine areas are within an hour's drive.
Temperatures are chilly in September, mid 60s°F in the
day and low 50s°F at night, but we had no rain or
particularly cloudy days hampering our journeys. |
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Wednesday September 23rd - Table Mountain
We arrived around 3pm, an hour later than planned after our
two hour flight from Skukuza, because of a flight delay. Our
driver,
John Farthing, met us at arrivals and drove us into the
Gardens area of downtown where we checked in and did a quick
turnaround at our hotel,
African Pride 15 on Orange. From there, John drove us to
the Table Mountain Aerial tramway base station (first picture
below). The views from the top were clear of fog or clouds,
which often cover the Table (second picture
below).
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Cape of Good Hope peninsula aerial view |
Table mountain north view up |
Table mountain view down |
Ben's Table selfie |
Table top south view |
We spent a good hour at the top taking pictures (third and
fourth pictures above and first picture
below) and walking some of the trails before returning on the
rotating tramway car (second picture below) and meeting John
to drive us back to our hotel. It was getting cold in the
early evening, so we walked around the shops near the hotel to
try to buy a couple of sweatshirts, with no luck. Deciding to
tough it out, we walked to nearby
Societi Bistro
restaurant and enjoyed what we all agreed was the best meal
of the entire trip. Elegant atmosphere, attentive service,
exotic food, a short wine tasting and a couple more good
glasses of wine, all of which set us back $51US - staggering!
I had the first South African Pinotage wine that I liked
there,
"Dark Lady", which I later learned was a RP 92 pointer
that costs about $8 per bottle. Back at the hotel, we backed up pictures, wrote some postcards
and emails and retired early in preparation for our morning
helicopter tour on Thursday.
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Table top south: Ben & Craig |
Table mountain aerial tramway |
Ready for helicopter tour |
Ben flying helicopter shotgun |
Thursday September 24th - Cape peninsula via helicopter and
land
Since the hotel, which is
officially part of the Marriott family now, couldn't figure
out how to do a platinum breakfast comp, I did breakfast for
us each morning by walking a block or so down the street to
McDonald's and bringing it back to eat in our rooms.
McDonald's had some interesting items in South Africa. A "Max"
McMuffin had a big pile of everything on it and the chicken
McMuffin was our favorite. Local culture indeed.
I read and was told that a particularly good way to see the
Cape peninsula is from the air, so I
booked us on a one-hour private helicopter tour down to Cape
Point with
NAC Helicopters Cape Town (third picture above). Craig and
I had done an open-door helicopter tour in
Kauai back in 2012,
but Ben had never flown in a helicopter before, so we gave him
the shotgun seat upfront with the pilot (fourth picture above)
while we took the two back seats. The views were very good
that morning (large pictures near the top of the page right &
left and first picture below). Unlike Kauai, where a lot of
pictures on Program settings were blurred, this time I was
prepared for the shake of the helicopter by setting my cameras
to shutter mode and forcing a 1/800+ speed - success! |
Cape peninsula aerial wide |
Peninsula drive along Hout's Bay |
West side road cut out |
Cape Point sign |
John met us at
the heliport on our return and we drove into town for a quick
stop for a couple of shopping needs. Ben wanted an official
South African Rugby shirt and Craig needed a replacement
charger for his portable game system for our return flights.
Thanks to John's research and experience we were successful at
both. We headed south along the western coast on some very
picturesque roads (wide picture top of page and second and
third pictures above). After a stop for a good, but slow,
lunch at
Bertha's in Simon's Town, we continued on our way to Cape
Point (fourth picture above). |
Cape Point lighthouse |
Cape Point stairs |
Cape of Good Hope Ostriches |
Cape of Good Hope zebras |
We walked the stairs to the Cape Point
Lighthouse (first picture above) and then by turning around on
the stairs got an excellent view of the Cape of Good Hope,
which was our next stop. The coastal road from Cape Point to
the Cape of Good Hope had some interesting animal life (third
and fourth pictures above). Stopping for pictures at the Cape
of Good Hope (first picture below) and a brief walk around, we
then turned north on the east side of the peninsula. It was
too late at that point to detour to Constantia winery as we
had hoped, so that will have to be for another time. We
stopped near the end of the day at Boulders Beach to see their
famous penguin colony (second and third pictures below). We
finished the day by walking to dinner near our hotel at
Kloof Street House, which was good, but not outstanding.
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Cape of Good Hope sign |
Boulders Beach penguin baby |
Boulders Beach penguins |
De Trafford winery |
Friday September 25th - Wine country Stellenbosch and
Franschhoek
I've enjoyed "wine travel" in past (Chile,
Burgundy,
Tuscany, and all over
California), so I wanted to indulge one wine day while in
South Africa. I did a considerable amount of research before
the trip on the wines of South Africa. The "bible" of South
African wines is a book published each year called
"Platter's South African Wines", which for some reason is
the only book on the planet that Amazon can't get new -
strange. Buying it direct from the Platter's website would
have cost a fortune in shipping, so I bought a used 2013
version. I also had a few Wine Spectator issues with South
African wine feature articles. Working with our driver John
Farthing ahead of time, we narrowed the list of possibilities
based on geography and timing. I was able to taste test a few
of the wineries' best at home, but in general I found South
African wines hard to get in the US. Since the trip, and based
on some input from the wineries themselves, I found a website
specializing in South African wines for the US,
Cape Ardor.
John picked us up at 9am and we headed northeast out of Cape
Town for the 60 minute trip to Stellenbosch. Our first stop
was also our best - tiny
De Trafford
(fourth picture above), situated at the end of a long dirt
road above the valley. Our hostess, Xenia Van der Meulen, who
knew John well, was very knowledgeable and proud of their
wines and the small-production way that they made them. De
Trafford has recently received extremely good press via Wine
Spectator. We tasted their Chenin Blanc, 2010 Merlot, 2012
Cabernet Sauvignon, 2013 Syrah 393 and 2009 Elevation 393. All
were very good, but the two 393's in my opinion were
outstanding. Xenia pointed out that all over South Africa the
2009 vintage was their best year of the decade. We continued
on to the much larger
Rust en
Vrede winery (first picture below) where we did a long
tasting at a patio table of their estate Merlot 2014, Syrah
2012, Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 and Estate blend 2012, followed
by a tasting of three of their high-end single vineyard wines,
Syrah 2012, Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 and 1694 Classification
2012.
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Rust en Vrede
winery |
Stark Conde winery
island |
Oldenburg winery |
Chamonix winery |
Continuing through the valley, our next stop was at
Stark
Conde winery, which had one of the most beautiful tasting
rooms and settings that I have experienced. The tasting room
is on an island behind us across the bridge in the second
picture above. We ate lunch at their adjacent
Postcard Cafe. Our last stop in Stellenbosch was
Oldenburg winery (third picture above), which was also in
a beautiful setting backed by mountains and fields. Crossing
over to Franschhoek, we barely made closing time for
Chamonix winery (fourth picture above), where I was
looking forward to their highly rated Pinotage. I guess
Pinotage is an acquired taste, because it just didn't work for
me. From Franschhoek we headed back to Cape Town. Based on
John's recommendations and Ben's request for an authentic
South African dinner to top off our trip, we walked to
Mama Africa restaurant for an exotic dinner and a live
band.
On Saturday morning we ate breakfast, finished packing and
headed to the airport via our (free - gotta love Emirates
Air!) limo for our long journey home. In addition to the 9
hour flight from Cape Town to Dubai and the 17 hour flight
from Dubai to Los Angeles, we had a 7 hour layover at DBX. The
plan for the layover was to shop at their extensive duty free
areas, especially since we didn't have any connections to
worry about, but we mostly just stayed in their huge business
lounge snacking, watching rugby and dozing off. We arrived at
LAX exhausted, but well traveled, on Sunday afternoon.
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