Kruger National Park: Happy birthday stare from a local
Time marches forward relentlessly, but how it is spent
is every individual's choice. My choice to celebrate another decade
birthday was to be some places I’d never been, do some
things I’d never done and to share the experience. ML
bailed because of the very long flights -
understandable, so Ben, Craig and I flew halfway around
the world, first to Dubai in the United Arab Emirates and then to both the east and
west coasts of South Africa. We didn’t do a big trip
like this because it was easy – it wasn’t. We did it as
an opportunity and adventure taken, not missed, and to
that end it was a remarkable success.
Dubai introduction
We arrived after our 16 hour
flight from LAX on a double decker Emirates A380 (first
picture below) at 7:30pm GST. In my experience and opinion, Emirates Air set the bar for
customer service. US airlines should pay attention. Our brief
stay in Dubai included Burj Khalifa – the tallest building in
the world, attached to the largest mall in the world and the
largest fountain in the world (second picture below) - you get
the idea, along with an
informative mosque visit (third picture below) and an
afternoon and evening desert adventure (fourth picture below).
Click through to the Dubai page
for much more.
Cape of Good Hope - South-western tip of Africa
Emirates A380 LAX-DBX 16 hours!
Dubai mall fountain at night
Jumeirah Mosque
Dubai desert sunset over the dunes
Kruger National Park introduction
For a bit of what it's
like to self-drive through Kruger National Park, play the
11 minute video below, accompanied by Gilda Radner's "Let's talk dirty
to the animals", The Rolling Stones' "Beast of burden", and
Guns and Roses's "Welcome to the jungle". Edited from over 7 hours of raw dashcam
footage by Craig in Windows Movie Maker 9 (If your browser
won't allow the embedded Windows media player,
click here for
the ~.5GB MP4).
Kruger National Park is
huge – about the size of New Jersey, located on the northeast side
of South Africa, west of Mozambique. We arrived at tiny Skukuza (SKZ) airport around 2pm after connecting through
Johannesburg from Dubai - 10 hours of flying and a
couple more on the ground. SKZ is inside of the southern end
of Kruger National Park, so upon landing we had to pay our
daily park entry fees (~$US70 for all three of us). Undeterred
by our long flights, we picked up our Avis Jeep Grand Cherokee and
headed south. I found driving on the left quite easy in Kruger
because the speed limit was low and there was no traffic of
any type, except for those frequent big animal jams (video
above). We were incredibly lucky seeing all of the big five
(lion, buffalo, leopard, elephant and rhino) as well as many
other large animals (first picture below) in just a few hours
on our first day. We stopped for some supplies on our way out
at the Skukuza store and just barely beat the gate closing
time at 6pm.
Photography from the car
Protea Kruger Gate chalet
Chalet living room
Chalet view down from loft
Just 100
meters outside of the Kruger Gate, we pulled into our hotel,
the
Protea Kruger Gate, where I had booked one of their 7
chalets (second picture above) many months before. For some
reason on Protea’s website it is difficult to figure out the
layout of their chalets, so let me decode here. There is a
living room (third and fourth pictures above), a ground floor
master bedroom with a king bed (first picture below), a ground
floor second bedroom with two twins pushed together (second picture below) and
a big upstairs loft bedroom with two twins (third picture
below) along with a fully equipped kitchen (fourth picture
below), two bathrooms, and a large outdoor braai (barbeque)
with a dining table in front of it. For me, staying outside of the park at a
real hotel was both much cheaper than the all-inclusive private
lodges and much more civilized than the camping setups inside
the park. We had no intention of roughing anything on this
trip. That said, WiFi was non-existent in the chalet and 1990s slow
at the lobby and restaurant. Cell coverage was okay all over
the hotel property and all through Kruger National Park. The
hotel restaurant did a great job on lunches, a bad job at
dinner and a terrible job on box breakfasts for our early game
drive.
Chalet master bedroom
Chalet 2nd bedroom
Chalet loft bedroom
Chalet kitchen
I’m about
as far as a person gets from being a nature freak, yet even I
was taken in by how everything about Kruger National Park screams
“full of life”. Seeing very large animals, mostly antelope
types, roaming around everywhere, including the hotel grounds,
became our new normal. Baboon screams woke Ben and I the first
night and whenever we left the chalet we were told to set the
top and bottom “baboon
locks” so they wouldn’t pull the sliding door off and make
themselves at home. A recent hotel grounds leopard sighting kept us on
our toes traveling between the chalet and the hotel
restaurant. Deet is mandatory outside to deal with the
mosquitoes. Kruger is in a malaria zone, although we were in the
off-malaria season. In addition to Deet, we came armed with prescription
Malarone, which we started taking before arriving and had
to continue for seven days after we left. Inside the park,
animals wander everywhere (four pictures below) and in a very
real sense we were the ones in the cage, so to speak. We did
three half-day park drives on three successive days, two
self-driven in our Jeep and one driven by a professional in a
tall open air vehicle. Click through to
the Kruger
National Park page for much more.
Leopard stroll
Zebra herd
Lazy kitty by the stream
Elephant up close
Cape Town introduction
Cape Town is a beautiful,
welcoming city – a place I’d return to if the opportunity
presented itself. I'd especially like to spend more time in
wine country. A quick two hour flight from Skukuza on an
Airlink RJ-135 brought
us to Cape Town for this third and final part of our trip. We used a
professional driver in Cape Town,
John Farthing +27 (0) 82 572 9403, who earned and deserves
my highest reference. A proper English gentleman if there ever
was one. After checking in at the
African Pride
15 on Orange hotel in the afternoon we visited Table Mountain
via the aerial cableway, which was worthwhile (first picture
below). On our first full day, we started with a helicopter
tour and then a long driving tour of the Cape peninsula
(second picture below). We spent our last full day an hour
outside of town in wine county, visiting five wineries across
two of the major wine areas, Stellenbosch (third picture
below) and Franschhoek. Click through to
the Cape Town page for
much more.
We toasted the end of our ten-day
decade birthday travel adventure with a very local and
authentic dinner at
Mama Africa (fourth picture below). The next day we
returned home through a marathon of flights from Cape Town to
Dubai and then Dubai to LAX. The customs and immigration lines
at LAX were very long, but we skipped by to our (free - gotta
love Emirates Air!) limo home using
Global Entry, which in my opinion is a great investment
for even occasional travelers.
Table mountain base
V&A waterfront & Table Mountain
Stark Conde winery Stellenbosch
Mama Africa restaurant
Photography minutia
We were armed with what
turned out to be just about the right photography equipment.
To help with spotting animals from a distance, we brought an
8x21mm compact set of binoculars. Craig and I shot with my D800e and D700 DSLRs, always with one
having a long lens and the other having a wide lens mounted.
Our DSLR lens compliment included my go-to Nikon 16-35mm f4,
Nikon 28-300mm, new Sigma 150-600mm C and Nikon 50mm f1.8. Ben
alternated shooting on the DSLRs and my Sony DX100 point &
shoot. Videos were taken using the Xiaomi
Yi action camera and a Kodak Playsport
HD.
Epilog - Lessons learned
There were challenges and triumphs all
along our journey, but we met each challenge and made some
memories that will undoubtedly last a lifetime.
What didn't work well at all? Hauling my tripod along and
never using it, worrying about Dubai customs scrutiny,
over-doing our first travel days on way too little sleep, dune
crashing in the desert, and too much food coupled with too
little exercise.
As always, I appreciate any and all feedback or questions on
these humble pages.