Absolutely full of life
with a
remarkable eco-balance...
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Zebra crossing - Kruger style |
And now for something
completely different... Despite not being a nature nut,
the appeal of Kruger for my decade birthday spot is its
uniqueness. It took a mountain of planning and a bit of
luck to put it all together well. The US dollar is very
strong against the South African Rand, making most everything cheap
in Kruger and in Cape Town, often crazy cheap. The
weather is mild in September with highs around 80°F and
lows around 60°F. I had some
trepidation before the trip about self-driving, all of
which was unfounded – it’s easy and the animals are
everywhere! |
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Sunday, September 20th: Skukuza self-drive south
We arrived at Skukuza’s
micro-airport on an Airlink RJ-135 around 2pm SAST after our quick 45 minute flight from
Johannesburg. We were very tired, having grabbed
optimistically 4 hours sleep enroute from Dubai overnight, yet
determined to not waste our first day. I had mapped out a
southern loop to Stevenson Memorial and a couple of water holes
from a good reference,
Globetrotter’s Kruger National Park and preloaded them
into the GPS. With Ben keeping me honest while driving on the
left side of the road and Craig as our prime animal spotter,
we headed south from the airport in our rented Jeep Grand Cherokee.
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The mighty photo hunters heading out |
Day 1: Warthog herd - Such a handsome group |
Day 1: Horny black rhino |
Day 1: Cape buffalo herd breaking up traffic |
Although there are road
signs at every intersection in Kruger, in my opinion a GPS
map of the area is required for peace of mind. I used
and recommend
Tracks for Africa maps for Garmin. At first we were very
excited to see impala herds and other common creatures, but we
soon got jaded/spoiled and looked for big game. It didn’t take
long. Road crossings started happening and animals like
warthogs (first picture above) and rhinos (second picture
above) appeared along the side of the road. All traffic
stopped for the herd of dozens of Cape buffalos (third picture
above). Elephants were everywhere (first picture below) and we
were very lucky to see a leopard close-up just two hours into
the park (second, third and fourth pictures below). There were
a couple of lions in the distance near the Stevenson Memorial.
All in all, we accomplished a lot in our first hours in the
park. We stopped at the Skukuza store on our way out for
snacks and wine and barely made the 6pm Kruger gate closing at
6pm. We checked in at the
Protea Kruger Gate and settled into our chalet before
driving to the hotel's restaurant for a bad dinner buffet with
a convention-like crowd. We were all desperate for sleep, so I
set no alarm and we got up Monday in time for lunch.
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Day 1: Baby elephants walk |
Day 1: Leopard
saunters across road |
Day 1: Leopard stance |
Day 1: Stuff happens |
Monday, September 21st: Self-drive northeast to Tshokwane
rest camp
We slept well for the first time on the trip in the chalet
(first picture below). Lunch at the hotel was excellent,
unlike our dinner the night before. We headed into the park
just after noon for our northeast drive to Tshokwane. At the
entrance gate we bought the official guide book for about
$3US, which helped us identify the animals and birds. Driving
in Kruger (second picture below) is surreal to some degree. We
were in our car cage while the animals - exotic animals -
roamed free in a fascinating natural balance. They accepted us
as long as we stayed in our cage. Impalas were everywhere in
this area (third and fourth pictures below).
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Protea Kruger Gate Chalet #1 |
Day 2: Drivin with the big boys |
Day 2: No Chevys
here -
Impala herd |
Day 2: Impala close-up |
Not 15 minutes
into the drive, we pulled up next to a giraffe having his
relaxed lunch (first and second pictures below) at the side of
the road. Soon we spotted another giraffe doing her elaborate
stooping dance to drink water at a stream (third picture
below). Crossing a one lane bridge, we spotted our first
crocodile (fourth picture below). |
Day 2: What's up? |
Day 2: Sticking his neck out |
Day 2: Sip a long way down |
Day 2: Crocodile
watch |
Cape buffalos have a reputation for a
foul temper, so I kept my distance in the Jeep, but they were
plentiful and didn’t seem to acknowledge us at all (first and
second pictures below). Wandering alongside the road we saw a
lot of baboons, some more interesting than others (third and
fourth pictures below).
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Day 2: Cape buffalo herd moving |
Day 2: Cape buffalos too close |
Day 2: Baboon baby ride |
Day 2: Baboons close-up |
As mentioned before, elephants were everywhere along this
drive (first and second pictures below). When we reached the
Tshokwane rest camp, which for some reason allows everyone to
walk around outside of their cars, there was still plenty of
wildlife around (third picture below with an elephant just
behind Ben and Craig) including elephants and baboons.
Although it was before 4pm – closing time for the store there,
we had to negotiate a couple of soft drinks as they tried to
close up. Although I had mapped out a farther loop route to
Lower Sabie camp, it was clear that we had to head back to the
hotel if we had any chance of beating the gate closing at 6pm.
On our way out we caught the sunset with the Kruger statue in
the foreground (fourth picture below). Another successful park
day. Not wanting to reprise the bad buffet dinner the night
before, we decided to drive 40 minutes to Hazyview to buy
supplies at a grocery store for our next couple of days. The
night drive felt scarier than we liked, so we settled on a KFC
and grocery store 10 miles closer. It was a bit unnerving to
be the only white folks in either place, but that’s probably
just our American biases. We had our fast-food dinner, backed
up our pictures and videos and retired for the night.
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Day 2: Elephant convention |
Day 2: The elephant
in the road |
Day 2: Tshokwane
elephant |
Day 2: Sunset over
Kruger Gate |
Tuesday, September 22nd: Professional open Jeep drive
In planning the trip, I was concerned that self-driving might
leave us without good sightings, so I booked a private drive
with a professional for our last full day. The negative was
that the pro wanted to head out at 6am – yuk. Good troopers
that we were, we were up and ready for the early morning
adventure armed with terrible box lunches from the hotel and
some serious camera equipment (large picture top of page right
– check out my new 150-600mm lens). It was the first time we
were cold the entire trip. Our pro driver was a great spotter,
so we saw a lot. The elephant in the first picture below came
right up to the road. There were other sightings along the way
(second and third pictures below) before we came on our first
really good lion encounter of the trip (fourth picture below).
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Day 3: Elephant
close-up |
Day 3: Zebras
wandering the plains |
Day 3: Reedbucks
discussion |
Day 3: Young male
lions |
It turned out to be
four young male lions (first picture below). They were more
than happy to lay and saunter around and generally ignore us.
Moving on, we spotted hippos (second and third pictures below)
and monkeys (fourth picture below).
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Day 3: Four lions
at stream |
Day 3: Hippos in
the stream |
Day 3: Baby hippos
grazing |
Day 3: Vervet
monkeys meeting |
We filled in a lot of blanks from our wildlife experience in
the remainder of the drive (first and second pictures below).
We stopped and got out to stretch our legs at an overlook in
the late morning (third picture below). Around noon the
carnivore animals seemed to disappear because of the heat and
that brought out the prey animals for their lunch (fourth picture
below). Returning to our hotel around 1pm, we dumped our
cameras in the chalet and then enjoyed a long lunch at the
hotel restaurant. Ben and Craig watched
2009's "Invictus", which is about South Africa's
post-apartheid 1995 Rugby team in their run up to the world
cup championship. Ben was interested in watching this year's
Rugby playoffs throughout the rest of the trip. I cooked our dinner in the chalet that night
using the supplies we had bought the night before at the
grocery store on the way to Hazyview.
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Day 3: Vultures
perched |
Day 3: Stork taking
off |
Day 3: Park
overlook |
Day 3: Waterbucks
watch |
Wednesday, September 23rd: Skukuza area self-drive & flight
to Cape Town
You’ve got to love bachelor leftovers, which we did for
breakfast on our last day in Kruger (first picture below –
check out the food mixture). Entering the park enroute to the
airport, there was a brand new form that day and a lower fee
for cars going directly to the airport. $17 versus the normal
$68 for all three of us! We were thrilled to
pilot the new system for them. Along our short drive from the
gate to the airport, we spotted a baby Nyala (second picture
below) and (we think) some very rare and endangered white
rhinos (third picture below). Our flight to
our next stop in Cape Town was
delayed an hour, so we parked in the waiting area of the
micro-airport (fourth picture below). Adventure two of three -
well done.
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Day 4: Breakfast of
champions |
Day 4: Baby Nyala |
Day 4: Rare white rhinos |
Skukuza's
micro-airport |
Mackey Group, Inc.
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