Glasgow architecture,
Edinburgh history and Loch Ness in three days...
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Charles Rennie Mackintosh's
Glasgow School of Art
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In our fast-paced travel style, Ben and I covered three
separate aspects of Scotland in a three day visit. We
started from
Philadelphia and flew via Chicago to Glasgow
where we focused on Charles Rennie Mackintosh's
architecture. I got the sense that Glasgow is a city
moving in the right direction, emerging from years of
tough times to become the new cultural center of Scotland. We
continued on to Edinburgh for its history and to catch
the end of the yearly
Edinburgh festival. Edinburgh is a
beautiful city, but touristy. We finished our trip with
a day-long tour of the Scottish Highlands, castles and a cruise
on Loch Ness. |
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Friday August
30th - Glasgow
Our flight from Chicago arrived at 9am. We took a taxi to the
Glasgow Marriott where we changed and headed out in search
of Glasgow's famous architecture. It rained steadily
throughout the day. Glasgow is not a good looking city - it
looks like its roots, which are in heavy industry.
Nonetheless, one native son,
Charles Rennie Mackintosh
(1868 - 1928) was an architectural genius who influenced Frank
Lloyd Wright and many others. His designs included both the
exterior and interior of buildings with influences from
Japanese forms and art nouveau. His theory was that
"decoration should not be constructed, rather construction
should be decorated". |
Scottish Highlands with Hammish the bull calf |
We started at the
Lighthouse,
which is a multi-function museum and school of architectural
art. It has a floor dedicated to Mackintosh's work and style
(map of Mackintosh's Glasgow buildings in first picture above) along with the original spiral-staircased
Mackintosh Tower with a view of Glasgow's rooftops (middle two
pictures above). From the Lighthouse, we headed up "pedestrianized"
Buchanan Street (fourth picture above) to
George Square and the City Chamber which was designed by
William Young (first picture below).
We ate lunch at one of
Mackintosh's most famous locations,
The
Willow Tea Room (exterior second picture below, interior
third picture below). Lunch was surprisingly good, having
expected tourist fare going in. Ben had a BLT sandwich and
I had the "haggis, neeps and tatties" which is a traditional
Scottish dish consisting of haggis - made from sheep's offal
(windpipe, lungs, heart and liver), which is boiled, minced,
mixed with beef suet and toasted oatmeal, then cooked inside the sheep's
stomach, neeps - mashed turnip or swede,
with a little milk and allspice added, and tatties
which are
creamed potatoes flavored with a little nutmeg. Okay, it
sounds disgusting, but it was really good. Hey, we eat hot
dogs in the US don't we? From the Willow Tea Room, we walked to
the
Glasgow School of Art
(large picture top of page) which covers an entire city block.
After dinner
at the Axiom, we took a quick walk on the River Clyde (fourth
picture below) and then finished the day at a Scotch bar
getting some expert advice on the best Scotches. We were often
reminded on this trip that the people are Scots, and
the drink is Scotch. My taste went
toward peaty, dark single malts. Here is my
short list after exhausting research:
Lagavulin
16yo, Ardbeg 17yo, Macallan 18yo, Laphraoig 10yo and Bowmorg
17yo. |
Saturday August 31st - Edinburgh
We took
Intercity Bus #900 for the 50 minute trip
from Glasgow to the
Edinburgh Marriott. I
loved the statue "Wincher's Stance" at the meeting point in
Glasgow's Buchanan Bus station (first picture below). It
captured so perfectly a lover's goodbye. I was contacted in
March, 2005 by Susan Petherick, the person who named the
statue, with some additional details after she found the image
on my website. The statue was created by a British sculptor,
John Clinch in 1994 and he gifted it to Glasgow City. The
council at the time were carrying out a huge refurbishment of
the City's main bus station, Buchanan Street and this statue
was to commemorate the inauguration of the "new" bus
station. Glasgow City Council decided to hold a competition
through the press and asked the public to create a name for
the statue with a "Glasgow" theme. The prize was to have the
winner's name displayed on a bronze plaque underneath the
statue and a trip to Paris. Susan, like hundreds of others,
used "Wincher's" as it's a very common Glaswegian word
pertaining to lovers or couples dating. However, in the words
of the press editor, Susan's entry was a "neat variation" of
the "wincher's" theme. She chose "Stance" because it is the
name used in the station for each bus departure point and it
aptly describes the pose of the two lovers. It was early
Springtime, 1995 when the newspaper informed Susan that she
had won and asked her to attend the inauguration to unveil the
statue and collect her prize tickets.Edinburgh
is divided into "old town" and "new town" areas. We started in
old town with the
City Art Centre
(second picture below),
where there was an "Art of Star Wars" exhibit Ben wanted to see . From there, we headed up the long hill to
Edinburgh Castle (third picture below) and then walked the
length of the "Royal Mile" to
Holyrood
Palace (fourth picture below), the Queen's Scottish
residence.
From there we walked through Princes, George and Queen streets
in the new town area,
which were packed with tourists in the last days of the
Edinburgh festival. After
dinner at the Hard Rock Cafe, we relaxed at the hotel before
going back to town for the festival fireworks,
shot from the Castle with a projected multimedia show on the cliffside
below it. Due to poor planning, we got to town too early
and ended up having to leave early and watch the fireworks
from the Marriott. |
Sunday September 1st - Scottish Highlands
and Loch Ness
We took a 12 hour bus tour with
Gray Line Edinburgh to see the Scottish Highlands
countryside, castles and Loch Ness (route in first picture
below). Usually I avoid organized tours for a number of
reasons, but this seemed the only practical way to cover all this
ground in a day. Past Stirling Castle, we pet a
Highland bull calf named Hammish (large picture, top of page
at right). Highland cows were bred with light colored fur
to make dying it easier than the native black fur. The
Scottish countryside changed throughout the trip, starting
with low rolling hills in Rannoch Moor (Rob Roy and William
Wallace country - second picture below), crossing the Highland
boundary fault, then becoming more barren and mountainous
higher up near Glencoe, site of the 1692 clan massacre (third
picture below). For 95 miles from Milngavie to Ft. William,
the
West Highland Way is a famous walking path taken by
thousands of people traversing the lowlands and mountains of
Scotland. All along this portion of our trip, we spotted
hikers on the paths (fourth picture below). |
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